Chapter 8
Forces
that cause ocean waves include
(a)
wind.
(b)
underwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and
landslides.
(c)
the gravitational pull of the Moon and the Sun.
(d)
human activities.
(e) All of the above.
Waves at
the ocean surface are examples of ___________________ waves, because
___________________.
(a)
transverse waves ... because the water moves
up-and-down as the waves pass by.
(b)
orbital waves ... the water moves in a circle or
ellipse as the waves pass by
(c)
longitudinal waves ... the water is compressed, like
the air is compressed by a sound wave
(d)
internal waves ... the water moves at the boundary
between the water and the air
(e)
stadium waves ... the water moves up-and-down like
fans making a wave at a football stadium.
Imagine
a wave with a 300 foot wavelength approaching the shore. What
is the "wave base" for this wave? (In other
words, at what water depth will water motion in the wave begin to touch the sea
floor?)
(a) 600 feet.
(b) 300 feet.
(c)
150 feet
(d) 50 feet.
(e) Can't tell without more information.
A LIMPET
is a
(a)
type of tsunami warning system.
(b)
a satellite that measures ocean wave heights from
space.
(c) A system for generating electrical power from waves.
(d) A type of OTEC system.
(e) None of the above.
Which
tsunami caused the greatest number of deaths in human history?
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
Irian Jaya tsunami of
February 17, 1996
(e)
The
Internal
waves are most closely associated with
(a)
tropical cyclones.
(b)
undersea earthquakes.
(c)
the pycnocline.
(d)
shallow water.
(e)
constructive interference.
Which of
the following is CORRECT regarding the speed of waves? (Hint:
check Figure 8.6.)
(a)
A wave will generally speed up as it comes into shallow water.
(b) The longer the wavelength, the faster the wave.
(c)
A transitional wave will travel faster than a deep-water wave.
(d)
A short period wave will be faster than a long period wave.
(e)
A wind wave will be faster than a tsunami.
The
growth of wind waves depends on
(a)
the fetch.
(b)
the duration of the wind (how long the wind blows).
(c)
the wind speed.
(d) (a), (b) and (c) above.
(e) None of the above.
A storm
far out at sea has made waves of many different wavelengths. As
these waves move away from the storm area
(a)
they will slow down, since the storm wind will no
longer push them along.
(b)
the short wavelength waves will overtake and pass the
long wavelength waves.
(c)
the wave trains will move at twice the speed of the
waves themselves.
(d)
the waves will be bent into curving paths by the Coriolis effect.
(e)
the waves will separate out into uniform, symmetrical
groups of waves called swells.
As waves
out at sea come into shallow water near shore
(a)
the wavelength decreases.
(b)
the waves slow down.
(c)
the wave height increases.
(d)
the waves break when their height:length
ratio gets larger than 1:7.
(e) All of the above.
What do
"rogue waves" and "surf beat" have in common?
(a)
They both have regular, predictable occurrences.
(b)
They both occur far from shore.
(c)
They both are products of wave interference.
(d)
They both behave like deep-water waves.
(e)
These are two different terms for the same thing.
Waves
coming in toward the shore tend to bend and become more parallel to the shore as a result of
(a)
constructive interference.
(b)
destructive interference.
(c)
pollution.
(d)
refraction.
(e)
reflection.
The
waves observed on the
(a)
they hold the record for the largest wind waves ever
measured.
(b)
they were the first meteorite impact-generated waves
seen by people.
(c)
they were they first rogue waves ever photographed.
(d)
no waves had ever sunk such a large ship before.
(e)
they had the most awesome left-breaking tubes, dude!
A
tsunami could be caused by
(a)
storms far out at sea.
(b)
undersea volcanic eruptions, fault movements, or
landslides.
(c)
a seismic sea wave.
(d)
constructive interference of several smaller waves to
make a very large wave.
(e)
strong and persistent prevailing winds and a very
large fetch.
Which of
the following is/are CORRECT regarding a tsunami?
(a)
Either the crest or the trough of a tsunami may arrive at the shoreline first,
causing either a landward surge or a seaward withdrawal of water.
(b)
A typical tsunami is a rapidly rising rush of water onto land, not a
down-crashing wave.
(c)
Most destructive tsunami occur in the Atlantic Ocean,
and the main tsunami warning system is located in the
(d)
Both (a) and (b) above are correct.
(e)
Both (b) and (c) above are correct.
Chapter 9
The main
force that causes ocean tides is
(a)
the rotation of the Earth.
(b)
water displaced by underwater earthquakes and
landslides.
(c)
Ekman Transport and the Coriolis
effect.
(d)
the gravity of the Sun and the Moon.
(e)
the trade winds.
The
timing of the tides follows the lunar day. Therefore,
if a high tide is at 3:00 p.m. on Monday afternoon,
then on Tuesday afternoon you would expect a high tide at about ______________.
(a) 2:10 p.m.
(b) 3:00 p.m.
(c) 3:50 p.m.
(d) 4:30 p.m.
(e) 5:00 p.m.
A tidal
bore is
(a)
a tide that just talks about itself and never shuts
up.
(b)
the rotary movement of a tidal wave around an amphidromic point.
(c)
a special type of tidal surge that occurs only in
certain areas of
(d)
a tidal process most likely to be seen during the
first quarter and third quarter phases of the Moon.
(e)
a wave caused by an incoming tide moving up a river.
A tidal
pattern with two nearly equal high tides and two nearly equal low tides per
lunar day is called
(a)
diurnal.
(b)
quasidiurnal.
(c)
semidiurnal.
(d)
metrodiurnal.
(e)
mixed.
In the
open ocean, tides can best be described as doing what?
(a) Rotating around an amphidromic
point.
(b) Cresting.
(c) Boring.
(d) Flooding.
(e) Ebbing.
The
greatest tidal ranges will occur when the Moon is at ___________ and the Earth
is at ___________.
(a)
perigee ... perihelion
(b)
perigee ... aphelion
(c)
apogee ... perihelion
(d)
apogee ... aphelion
(e)
aphelion ... apogee
Tides
are caused by the Earth rotating under two tidal bulges. Therefore,
if a place on one side of the Earth is having a high tide, a place on the exact
opposite side of the Earth will likely have __________________ at the same
time.
(a)
a semidiurnal tide
(b)
a neap tide
(c)
a low tide
(d)
a high tide
(e)
a mixed tide
The
tides along the coast of
(a)
semidiurnal tides ... diurnal tides
(b)
diurnal tides ... mixed tides
(c)
mixed tides ... semidiurnal tides
(d)
flood tides ... ebb tides
(e)
lunar tides ... solar tides
When the
Sun, Moon, and Earth are all in line,
(Hint:
the answer relates to the formation of spring and neap tides.)
(a)
the overall gravitational attraction on the oceans
will be less.
(b)
the arrival of the high tide will be delayed.
(c)
the arrival of both the high and low tides will be
sped up.
(d)
there will be little difference between high tide and
low tide.
(e)
the highest high and lowest low tides will occur.
What
would tides be like on Earth if the Moon did not exist?
(a)
Since the Moon makes the tides, there would be no tides at all.
(b)
Since the Sun also has an effect on the tides, there would still be tides but
the tidal range would be less.
(c)
Tides would occur, and the tidal range would be greater.
(d)
Since the Earth would still orbit the Sun, there would be hardly any difference
compared to the tides we have now.
(e)
Tides would occur, but they would only be mixed tides.
Of the
options given, which phase of the Moon would have the smallest tidal range?
(Hint: the answer relates to the formation of spring and neap tides.)
(a)
Crescent Moon
(b)
New Moon
(c)
Full Moon
(d)
Quarter Moon
(e)
Gibbous Moon
Which of
the following would you expect to see in the
(a)
powerful ebb currents
(b)
the world's largest tidal range
(c)
the tidal range increasing from the mouth of the bay
northward to the head of the bay
(d) (a), (b) and (c) above.
(e) None of the above.
An amphidromic point is
(a)
a place where the tides start each tidal day.
(b)
a place where the tides stop each tidal day.
(c)
a point in the ocean around which the tide wave
rotates, and where there is little or no tidal range.
(d)
a place where the tidal range (the vertical sea
surface change from high tide to low tide) is greatest.
(e)
the breaking crest of a tidal bore.
Which of
the following represents the main disadvantage of generating electricity from
the tides?
(a)
Tides are too powerful to be used for electrical power
generation, although people have tried.
(b)
The lunar day is not equal to the solar (24 hour) day.
(c)
Spring tides are not equal to neap tides.
(d)
Tides are reversing currents, but electrical turbines can spin in only one
direction.
(e)
There are less than ten places on earth where tidal ranges are great enough to
generate electricity effectively.
The
imbalance (inequality) of the Moon's gravitational force versus the centripetal
force created by the orbit of the Earth and Moon around each other
(a)
causes all the ocean water to flow to the side of the
Earth away from the Moon.
(b)
causes spring tides on one side of the Earth and neap
tides on the other at the same time.
(c)
causes amphidromic tides.
(d)
causes two tidal bulges; one at the North Pole and one
at the South Pole.
(e)
causes two tidal bulges; one facing the Moon, and one
on the opposite side of the Earth from the Moon.
Chapter
10
A berm is
(a)
gently sloping and usually dry.
(b)
gently sloping and usually wet.
(c)
steeply sloping and usually dry.
(d)
steeply sloping and usually wet.
(e) Cannot make any such generalization.
Worldwide
(eustatic) changes in sea level can
be caused by
(a)
changes in the sizes of glaciers and ice caps.
(b)
changes in rates of sea floor spreading.
(c)
changes in ocean temperature.
(d) (a), (b) and (c) above.
(e) None of the above.
The
(a)
beach compartmentalization.
(b)
seawall construction.
(c)
hard stabilization.
(d)
relocation.
(e)
beach replenishment.
Submerging
shorelines commonly have
(a)
uplifted marine terraces.
(b)
drowned beaches and drowned river valleys.
(c) wave-cut cliffs above sea level.
(d)
groins and jetties.
(e) All of the above.
Which of
the regions of the beach system listed would be the farthest from land?
(a)
backshore
(b)
berm
(c)
beach face
(d)
foreshore
(e)
longshore bar
Along
the
(a)
Both the berms and the longshore bars are large.
(b)
The berms are large and well-developed,
but the longshore bars are small.
(c)
The berms are small, but the longshore bars are
large.
(d)
Both the berms and the longshore bars are small.
(e) Cannot make any such generalization.
What do
the beaches of both the
(a)
Both coasts have abundant barrier islands.
(b)
The average longshore drift direction on both coasts is from north to south.
(c)
Both coasts are rising, and so are dominated by
emergent shoreline features.
(d)
Both coasts are sinking, and so are dominated by submergent shoreline features.
(e) None of the above.
Rip
currents flow __________________, and if you are caught in one, you should
___________________.
(a)
parallel to shore ... float with the current until it
dies out
(b)
parallel to shore ... swim toward shore to get back to
the beach
(c)
away from shore ... say your prayers, because you're
as good as dead!
(d)
away from shore ... swim hard against the current to
get back to the beach
(e)
away from shore ... swim parallel to shore to get out
of the current
What
happens to the sand at the end of a typical beach compartment?
(Hint: see Figure 10.12 and the associated text.)
(a)
The sand flows down a submarine canyon.
(b)
The sand piles up at a river delta.
(c)
The sand accumulates in longshore bars offshore of the beach.
(d)
The sand forms a large sand spit.
(e)
The sand forms a tombolo.
Which of
the following is true of barrier islands along the coasts of the
(a)
They are more common on the
(b)
They migrate landward with rising sea level.
(c)
They are generally separated from the mainland by a
lagoon.
(d) (a) and (b) above.
(e)
(b) and (c) above.
Longshore
drift (longshore transport) describes the net movement of sand
(a)
toward the beach when the waves are small.
(b)
away from the beach when the waves are large.
(c)
along the beach in the direction the waves are going.
(d)
along the beach in the opposite direction the waves
are going.
(e)
down a submarine canyon.
Human
activities that have contributed to shoreline erosion include
(a)
construction of jetties and groins along beaches.
(b)
construction of seawalls along beaches.
(c)
construction of dams on rivers.
(d) (a), (b) and (c) above.
(e) None of the above.
Which of
the following is a correct statement about changes in sea level?
(a)
Sea level changes have been measured by tide gauges
and by satellites.
(b)
Sea level rise can be caused by polar ice melting
and/or by thermal expansion of warmer oceans.
(c)
During the sea level fluctuations of the Pleistocene Epoch, global sea level
fell more than 1000 feet below present levels.
(d) a) and b) above are both correct.
(e)
b) and c) above are both correct.
Because
dams on rivers have in many cases lead to _______________, people have turned
to _______________ to help restore eroded beaches.
(a)
beach starvation ... beach replenishment
(b)
beach progression ... beach regression
(c)
beach cementation ... jackhammers
(d)
delta formation ... dredging
(e)
relocation ... hard stabilization
Which of
the following is NOT a feature of a depositional shoreline?
(a)
sand spit
(b)
sea arch
(c)
bay mouth bar
(d)
tombolo
(e)
delta